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Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Forever Tailored Coat

Forever Tailored Coat

Back in the 1980's, fresh out of a tailored  clothing design class at the University of Minnesota Duluth, I had many ambitious projects planned. My first custom tailored project was a rust colored princess seamed jacket with a gathered sleeve and SIX fabric bound buttonholes{ a gasped from the instructor and fellow students} but I received an A on the project.  A few years later I grew out of that fitted coat, styles changed and I ended up tossing it in a goodwill bin.
The next project was a design in the 1980's which was labeled a Reefer coat.

I put a lot of custom tailoring into the coat. First I picked a heavyweight black wool. Preshrunk it by steaming and preparing the fabric. I added hand picked top stitching on the lapel. custom chevron  padded stitches sewn in horsehair interfacing,  The coat has roomy fitting ease,double breasted style,  an exaggerated extended shoulders line and calf length.
Welt angled pockets,keyhole stitched buttonholes,

I have used this  classic style coat through the years, in the coldest months of January.  In earlier 2000, I shortened it to above the knee, raised the shoulders, to get rid of the extended shoulder line of the reefer coat styling. This alteration now  shortened the sleeves to an unacceptable length. I used the fabric from the bottom to add 11/2 inch  length to the sleeve, and now incorporated the design element into the sleeve bottom.

 With quality 100% wool fabric, one can steam and shape  the lapel and upper shoulder area, quality  tailoring sewing details and heavy twill coat lining, I have a warm coat that can handle the subzero winter chill in Northern Minnesota.. I have a coat that is a classic and will last a lifetime!